Vacationing in Vietnam: Da Nang and Hoi An

Ho Chi Minh City gave us a very good first impression of Vietnam. The people came across as diligent and hardworking, and the country seemed to have made significant progress in the four decades after the war. We were at the chaotic Ho Chi Minh airport for the trip to Da Nang where for the first time the experience was not so good. Our flight was delayed by couple of hours, and there was no way one could get to know the status. Vietjet the premier private airline of Vietnam seemed to be much worse than our Indigo in handling customers.

Also Read: Travelogue of Ho Chi Minh City

We landed at Da Nang two hours behind schedule and it upset our plans a bit. We were supposed to visit Hoi An the same evening, but due to paucity of time we decided on an alternative plan. We were famished, and went for some food straight from the airport. Our guide took us to a place called Café Bread & Butter. Redeemed after a sausage stuffed croissant and pastry later, we proceeded to see the city.

Da Nang is the largest city in Central Vietnam located on the sea. It is the cleanest city we visited in the country, with hotels lined up along the beach with the rooms providing a mesmerizing view of the Indo China Sea. It was already late afternoon and instead of checking in we proceeded to our destination the Monkey Mountain. The journey was short but scenic, and as we rode up the hill we could see a view of the ocean always on one side.

Monkey Mountain is named so as it has a large populace of monkeys. But though we saw a lot of signboards warning us not to feed the monkeys, we could hardly see any simians there. The main attraction up the hills is the large Buddhist temple on top, with a statue known as Lady Buddha towering on it. The statue is the tallest Buddha statue in South-east Asia. There are some beautiful pagodas on the hill too. Again we appreciated how clean the place was and posed to take pics at various locations. As dusk was approaching, we came back to the city and checked into our rooms at Nesta Resort. Our room had a stunning view of the beach.

Dinner was at an Indian restaurant at a walking distance. The food was just about OK. Vietnam has a lot of Indian restaurants that is a testament to the fact that the country is very popular with the Indian tourists.

We spent some time at the beach after a lavish breakfast the next morning, and soon were on our way to Ba Na Hills.  Ba Na Hills is about 20 kms from Da Nang, and the hilltop has a touristy entertainment park called Sunworld. The journey to Ba Na Hills involves a long ride in cable car, that provided a grand view of the sea, the jungle below and a large waterfall. The place was quite crowded with tourists and we had to stand in a long queue to board the cable car. The cable car system is one of the largest in the world with a capacity to handle about 7000 passengers in an hour.

The Sunworld Entertainment Park has something for everyone. The French Village has many medieval looking French buildings, including a fort and a church. The Golden Bridge has a structure supported by two pillars of the shape of human hands. Tourists throng the bridge to pose for pics, flags of various countries are mounted on one side. Some of us posed with the Indian flag there.

Another interesting place was Sun Craft Beer, a German brewery inside the entertainment park, where beer samplers are served as part of the entry ticket. There were European dance performances within the brewery that set the mood of an enjoyable afternoon.

Our lunch, again part of the entry ticket, was at a restaurant that hosted the largest buffet we experienced in Vietnam. The buffet had an elaborate spread of Indian and Vietnamese food. Apart from this restaurant, the place has another sixteen restaurants offering cuisines from different parts of the world.

After visiting Ba Na Hills we headed for what I consider the best experience in Da Nang, - the small town of Hoi An. Hoi An was a port for trading during 15th and 16th century, and thus was a melting pot of culture. Located around 30 kms from Da Nang, it is like a dream place – all the streets are lit up by lanterns of different colours. Hoi An is a World Heritage Site as declared by UNESCO and is known as the Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwich) capital of Vietnam.

One attraction here is the Japanese Bridge that was constructed in the 17th century. The river below has boats that ferry passengers for travel rides, and these too are illuminated the same way by lanterns. The buzzing food street here serves some delectable Vietnamese food. You can see exquisite stuff like octopus, frogs etc displayed prominently in the shops. The buzz the lakeside has is exceptional, with live music blaring out of the pubs nearby you feel like soaking in the ambience.

We enjoyed the evening and came back to the hotel pretty late. Next morning, we bade farewell to Da Nang for Hanoi to experience the capital of the country.

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Vacationing in Vietnam – Ho Chi Minh City

Any Bengali kid of my generation is very familiar with the name Vietnam. In 1960s and 70s, when the Viet Cong was fighting the French, and then the Americans, there used to be lot of sympathies for the Vietnamese guerrillas in Bengal. In fact, many of the walls in our neighbourhood were plastered with the slogan “Amar Naam Tomar Naam Vietnam” (my name, your name is Vietnam). Wrestler Muhammad Ali used to be a hero, when he said “I ain’t got no quarrel with Viet Cong” and went to jail in the United States for refusing to fight in Vietnam for the United States Army.  

Cafe Apartment in Ho Chi Minh City

For me the curiosity remained, and it was surprising that sixty years later when I was embarking on a weeklong trip visiting Vietnam, my adrenaline was still high.

There were about eight of us who took the Indigo flight from Kolkata to Ho Chi Minh City. Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam under the Americans and got renamed after the liberation in 1975. Ho Chi Minh was the great Vietnamese leader who spearheaded the revolution and he is still considered God by a large section of the populace.

Ho Chi Minh City airport was buzzing even at 3 am at night. After we finished immigration (we already had an e-visa from India), I walked across to a shop outside the airport to buy a lighter and offered a dollar. The change that came back was 13000 Vietnamese Dongs. Yes, the denomination of Vietnamese currency is in thousands, a dollar roughly translating to 25000 Dongs.

Our accommodation was at Hotel Eden Star, located in a very busy area of Saigon. A pretty neat and clean place, it had many street food places including an Indian one around it. Next morning, we were slated for a short city tour after the breakfast.

The spread at the breakfast buffets in Vietnamese hotels is quite huge. For non-vegetarians there are a variety of cold cuts, fish items as well as a live counter for Pho, the Vietnamese signature broth. Vegetarians can feast on an array of fruits as well salads. There are varieties of cheese too available, apart from fried rice and local curries.

Reunification Palace

Our city tour had a couple of interesting places. The first was the Reunification Palace, the place where the President of South Vietnam operated before the country merged to become a unified Vietnam. You have many items and artefacts of the pre-unification period.

Saigon Old Post Office

The second place that impressed me was the Saigon Old Post Office, a gothic building from the Indo-China period. While part of the building still has a post office functioning, the other parts have some shops selling memorabilia. A portrait of Ho Chi Minh and some old maps adorn the walls.

Food at a Vietnamese restaurant at Ho Chi Minh City

We were famished at the end of the city tour and Indranil, a friend and our tour organizer from Travel with Neel took us to a Vietnamese restaurant “Viet Village” for lunch. The Grilled chicken with Orange sauce was just too good. The Fried Spring Rolls, some Chicken and Noodle Salad and Fried Fish left us immensely satisfied. We started for our main attraction for day Cu Chi Tunnels right after the meal. 

Cu Chi Island presentation and Model

Cu Chi Tunnels, located about an hour away from Saigon is a stark reminder about of the resistance of the Viet Cong against the much stronger US and French troops in the Southern Part of Vietnam. The three layered tunnels about 120 km long were built over decades for the Viet Cong army and activists to hide underground and execute guerilla attacks on the US army. The visit to the tunnels showed interesting pathways, booby traps, deployed to thwart the much stronger enemy. The resilience of the Vietnamese finally won. The site salutes the spirit of the Vietnamese war for freedom. From the various models at the site, it is heartbreaking to get a glimpse of the extreme condition under which the Viet Cong soldiers fought from the tunnels.

We all at Cu Chi Island

Emboldened by my wife who went right into a dark and narrow tunnel, I followed suit. Soon I was crawling on all fours inside with my knees almost giving up. Somehow I managed to complete and come out with both a sense of achievement and relief.

I could not but appreciate how the government has maintained the site and turned it into a tourist attraction, educating thousands of people every day about the war that ravaged the country for decades.

Pho shop in Saigon & Meatball Pho

We were too tired by the time we came back. Our dinner was at a neighbourhood Pho shop, with tables and stools to sit on the footpath. Pho is a complete food by itself with noodles, veggies, meat and sauces to add on. 

Next morning, we left early for Mekong Delta, the place where river after its journey through many countries Mekong finally meet the sea. There are many small islands located with the backwaters and distributaries of the river. The journey from Ho Chi Minh city to Mekong Delta took about three hours through industrial areas as well as rural heartlands. We reached a jetty from where we took a motor boat through the river reaching a small island. Here, we could tour a small village, sometimes in a rickshaw and sometimes in a small boat. We were treated to local fruits and got a chance to listen to some folk music. Overall, one could get a short peek into the rural life of Vietnam.

Food at an Island in Mekong Delta

The lunch that we had at a riverside local restaurant was the cherry on the cake. At a restaurant named “Men Tay Riverside” we were treated to a Vietnamese lunch. The main attraction was the huge fried fish “Ca Tai Tuong Chien Xu” that translates as Elephant Ear Fish. The fish resembled a gigantic Tilapiya and had a sweetish similar taste. Paper rolls (with veggies, noodles and fish) were made out of some parts of the fish and enjoyed with sweet chilli dips, whereas the rest of the fish were devoured with Fried Rice and Noodles. Grilled Shrimps and local Chicken Curry were further accompaniments to the grand lunch.

Mekong River

As we came back from the Delta in the evening, we wanted to experience the city as we were leaving for Da Nang the next day. Our first stop was the famous “Café Apartments”, an eight-storied building that has fifty odd cafes. We then walked down the busy streets sampling some street food. We could see that the city sleeps late, has a vibrant nightlife and hookers soliciting for sex is common on the streets. We reached our hotel very tired, and looked forward to our next stop, the seaside resort town of Da Nang.






Street Food Stalls (above) and a Street Side Bar 

Also Read: Travelogue of Da Nang & Hoi An


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