The Taste of Garhwal at Tehri

I have been to Uttarakhand many a times, but never to the Tehri region. We usually go up the Joshimath-Auli or the Nainital-Munsiyari stretch. However, this time we were looking for a more sedate trip where we did not have to do stretch ourselves too much. The trio of Kanatal, Landour and Mussourie suited us perfectly.

On any trip, food is something that excites me a lot, and I had chalked out that we will eat local as much as possible. Garhwali Cuisine was on my mind, as I had tried some variants of the same in our previous trips as well as couple of food festivals in Hyderabad that I had attended.

We were staying at Kanatal, a quaint hamlet in Tehri Garhwal.  On a late morning that was still very cold, we were returning from a trip to Tehri Dam, when our car driver suggested we have Garhwali food at a place close to Chamba, the district headquarters. He took us to a place called Chacha Sip-N-Dine Restaurant and Homestay, a small Garhwali dhaba with both indoor and outdoor seating. We were interested in trying out a thali, but this place was serving only a-la-carte. Consulting with the owner, we ordered a few dishes from their menu. 

Mandwa (Ragi) ke Roti is a common carbohydrate that people eat in Uttarakhand. This was served with Pahadi Dal Sangam, a smoky dish made of a number of lentils. Local horse gram or Gahat was one of the lentils used in this – Gahat ki Dal standalone is also very popular in this region. The tempering in the dal was from Jhakiya seeds, a local wild mustard that is used in many Garhwali dishes. This was an extremely earthy preparation and a perfect foil for the Mandwa nachni roti. In Uttarakhand there is widespread cultivation and use of different millets, and they feature prominently in their daily menu.

The other Uttarakhand dish that was served was Kafli, a green leaf curry made from local spinach. There was a lot of tadka in this dish, using garlic and again Jhakiya seeds. This was savoured with a mixed vegetable pulav, that also had the crunchy Jhaliya flavours. A special mention must made of the Green Chilli Walnut Chutney, usung local akhrots and flavourful green chilli.

We were told that most of the vegetables used in the dishes are from their own garden. We wanted to try out more dishes, but were completely full, so could not venture out to have more.

This was an extremely satiating meal that cost us Rs 320 for two people. We were so enamored by the taste of the Jhakiya seeds that we carried some to Hyderabad from a local grocer.

Next morning was the time to visit Surkanda Devi temple 9500 ft on top, with a surreal view of the Himalayas. The journey on ropeway itself was a treat with a magnificient view. Three hours for the trip and we were very hungry, and asked our car driver if there was another Garhwali place close by. He took us to Milan Pahadi restaurant, right at Kanatal itself.

Milan was more of a proper restaurant located bang opposite the Eco Park at Kanatal. Thankfully, they had a Pahadi Thali available at Rs 250 and we were happy that we could try many dishes this time. The thali had Jhangora Rice as the main carb. Jhangora or barnyard millet is a local produce and widely consumed at Uttarakhand. They also make a kheer with this millet. However, our thali had Chawal ke Kheer instead of Jhangora Ke Kheer. Kafli was there in this thali too, though the preparation was more rich.  

Then there was Aloo Ke Thechwani. “Thechna” means “crushing” in Garhwali and this dish uses smashed or pounded vegetables, aloo in this case. This was quite a spicy dish, in hilly areas usually they have some spicy food that help to keep the body warm especially in the winters. Apart from that there was a thick Pahadi Toor ke Dal, a local variety of Arhar Dal different from what we get in the plains. Raita, a little different with spices added to it and salad completed the thali.  Of course, no meal in Uttarakhand can be complete without Mandwa Ke Roti.

From Kanatal, we proceeded to Landour, a British built village at the highest point of Mussourie. Light of Landour a comparatively new hotel was where we stayed, a place close to the legendary Char Dukan, the centre of Landour. It is here that we met enthusiastic Chef Vipin Aswal. Chef has worked extensively in India and abroad, but remains a Garhwali at heart. He offered to cook for us Pahadi Style Country Chicken.

The chicken that came tasted absolutely out of the world. It was local country chicken (desi murga) cooked in a rich masala prepared in pestle using chopped onions with a tempering of jakhiya seeds. The chicken was cooked with its skin on, the fat from the skin adding further taste to the dish. The flavours were in a different zone altogether with the masala upping the ante. This was served with local Red Rice, a tastier version compared to the Kerala Red Rice that I use at my home.

This was only a small cross-section of Garhwali delicacies that I could try out in a weeklong visit. Like any other cuisine, there is a treasure trove in Garhwali cuisine too, and it will need some serious work to unveil the recipes. One hopes we start having more Garhwali popups in our cities, finally resulting in pure Garhwali restaurants there.

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5 Restaurants in Hyderabad You Should Try: Coffee Sangam, Bougainvillea, Ming Ustad, Urban Nemo & Vincent’s Papaya

Hyderabad's food scene has evolved far beyond its legendary biryani. From innovative South Indian flavours and sophisticated multicuisine dining to garden cafés and all-day breakfast destinations, the city continues to offer something new for every kind of food lover.

Over the past few months, I came across five Hyderabad restaurants that particularly caught my attention — Coffee Sangam, Bougainvillea, Ming Ustad, Urban Nemo Café & Exotic Garden, and Vincent’s Papaya.

(Also Read: 3 Restaurants in Hyderabad you must try )

Each has a distinct personality, whether it is Chef Vignesh Ramachandran's creative South Indian fare at Coffee Sangam, the lively multicuisine experience at Bougainvillea, the elegant Indian-Chinese menu at Ming Ustad, the garden setting of Urban Nemo, or the comforting breakfast offerings at Vincent's Papaya. Here are five Hyderabad restaurants that deserve a place on your dining list.

Coffee Sangam – Jubilee Hills

In my mind, Chef Vignesh Ramachandran ranks among the top few chefs in Hyderabad. I was a great fan of his culinary creations at Once Upon a Time at Green Park Hotel, so I was particularly curious when he started Coffee Sangam in Jubilee Hills.

The café has been launched in association with the team behind Spicy Venue, one of Hyderabad's well-known Telugu restaurants.

What I particularly enjoyed here were the interesting twists on familiar South Indian favourites. The Chilli Garlic Dosa was packed with flavour, while the Pistachio Podi Idly worked beautifully, with the crunch of pistachios adding an interesting contrast to the soft idlis.

The Sugandha Soda, made with Nannari, was refreshing and soothing, while the Peri Peri Punugulu brought another layer of spice and crunch to the meal.

Coffee Sangam is a good choice if you enjoy familiar South Indian food presented with a creative touch.

Bougainvillea - Jubilee Hills

Located next to Zuci, and belonging to the same management, Bougainvillea is an expansive café spread across three floors, complete with a stylish PDR.

The menu covers Indian, Asian and Continental cuisine, making it a versatile option when a group is looking for different kinds of food under one roof.

We started with the Mutton Marag, where the broth was wonderfully flavourful and the mutton beautifully tender.

The sushi selection includes interesting options such as Black Rice Avocado Sushi, served with pickled carrot and cream cheese. From the Mediterranean section, the Sumac Chicken stood out, while the Chicken Burger offered a more indulgent fast-food option.

There is plenty more to explore across the menu.

But what struck me most about Bougainvillea was the atmosphere. There was a definite buzz around the place, and the diners seemed genuinely happy to be there.

Ming Ustad - Hitech City

Located close to Shilparamam, Ming Ustad brings together Indian and Chinese cuisine in an elegant setting.

The restaurant has a sophisticated indoor dining area with wooden accents and warm lighting, along with an alfresco section that works particularly well for an evening meal.

Ming Ustad is also equipped for larger gatherings, with a banquet hall that can accommodate up to 150 guests, making it suitable for birthdays, family celebrations and corporate events.

The menu offers plenty of choice. We enjoyed the Garlic Noodles with Sesame Paneer, while the Lamb Rogan Josh and Chicken Meatball Curry offered rich, hearty flavours.

The gravies paired particularly well with Masala Kulcha and Lachha Paratha.

For dessert, the Hazelnut Pastry and Tiramisu made for a satisfying finish.

Urban Nemo Café & Exotic Garden- Jubilee Hills Checkpost

Urban Nemo Café & Exotic Garden is, at garden café where every corner is filled with greenery, art, and good vibes! Everything around you, from the plants to the artworks, is for sale, so you can take a little piece of this magic home.

Try dishes like Spicy Corn & Cheese Toast, Chickpea Cranberry Salad, Avocado Tortilla Tostadas, Zucchini Bites, Kunafa Fried Prawns, and Grilled Fish with Mash Potatoes..

Mocktails include the refreshing Blueberry Sparkler and the indulgent Espresso Martini, and matcha lovers must try the Matcha Avocado White Chocolate Smoothie!

Whether it’s brunch, a party on the Green Deck, or just soaking in the vibes, Urban Nemo Café & Exotic Garden, Hyderabad is pure magic.

Vincent’s Papaya – Sainikpuri

In the quieter lanes of Sainikpuri, Vincent's Papaya has built a loyal following as a charming neighbourhood café.

The café is particularly known for its Breakfast Club, and the menu focuses on comforting, hearty food with an international influence.

The breakfast spread includes Chicken Ham, Egg & Cheese Croissant, Buttermilk Biscuit with Chicken Sausage, and Pancakes with Canadian Maple Syrup.

For something more substantial, the Lamb Chops with Tomato Rice & Omelette is worth trying.

The coffee deserves a special mention too. Both the Americano and Cappuccino are excellent choices for a leisurely morning.

You can also find American-style hotdogs, tropical juices and several other interesting options on the menu.

Vincent's Papaya is the kind of neighbourhood café that works particularly well when you want to slow down and enjoy a relaxed breakfast or coffee.

Coffee Sangam brings creativity to South Indian food, Bougainvillea offers a broad multicuisine experience, Ming Ustad combines Indian and Chinese dining in an elegant setting, Urban Nemo adds a distinctive garden-café experience, while Vincent's Papaya focuses on comforting breakfasts and neighbourhood café culture.

If you're looking to explore beyond the city's familiar dining destinations, these five restaurants are certainly worth adding to your Hyderabad food list.

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Uttarandhra with Onamaalu: Exploring the Bold Flavours from Northern Andhra Pradesh

 Onamaalu, an initiative to primote Telugu food and culture is doing a yeomen service in studying in depth the cuisines of different regions of the erstwhile United Andhra Pradesh. I have been associated with this initiative since the beginning, and really appreciate the work going on – visiting different districts of erstwhile united Andhra Pradesh, researching the cuisine along with art, culture of the place, and coming back with a rich repertoire of knowledge, recipes and culinary practices of that area. These are further documented for the future.

Recently Onamaalu organized Uttarandhra Kathalu, a two-day event showcasing the diversity of food from that region. On the first day at Culinary Lounge, Ms Sowjanya Narsipuram from Swadhistam, curated a vegetarian platter from Northern Andhra, ably assisted by The Culinary Lounge team who added a few non-vegetarian dishes from that region.

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Monsoon Magic at Bogmallo Beach: A Serene Escape in Goa's Rainy Season

It was the month of June and both me and my wife were getting restless. Frequent travel is an addiction and it so happens that if we are in Hyderabad for a few weeks, we start yearning for a vacation. This time, a random search of flights gave us a nice price for Goa, and pronto we booked air passage for a four-night trip.

June is supposed to be peak monsoon in Goa, and we were not in mood for a place from where sea is at a distance. This is where research took over. We located couple of places and finally zeroed on to Bogmallo Beach Resort, located at a beach only 6 km from Dabolim airport. We negotiated an off-season rate of Rs 7,200 per night inclusive of breakfast and booked the place for four days. Pre-check of weather told us that there was going to be rain during these days, but not at full fury.

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5 New Restaurants in Hyderabad That'll Impress Your Taste Buds

I have been periodically writing about new restaurants opening up in Hyderabad, and yes, there are dime a dozen these days. While many restaurants open with lot of pomp, fanfare, PR blitz and hype, it is unfortunate to find that most fizzle out like a damp squib. Here are a few restaurants that have opened in the last few months, who are actually living up to their potential and serving diverse scrumptious food. Some are unique concepts while some have really worked diligently on the said cuisine.

(Also Read: 3 Restaurants in Hyderabad you must try )

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Angkor Wat: A Journey To Ancient Cambodia

After a very enjoyable and eventful Vietnam trip (Read here) our next destination was Siem Reap. Siem Reap is a small city in North Cambodia, primarily a tourist destination known as the gateway to Angkor Wat, the 12th century Hindu Buddhist temple complex that is a world heritage site.

We reached Siem Reap airport late in the evening, and checked into Angkor Paradise Hotel. The hotel was in a busy area of the town with the main highway right in front. Many local restaurants were located around the hotel, but we preferred to eat at the hotel itself, that had lined up a special continental menu for us. The highlights of which were the Grilled Fish in Butter Sauce, and Caesar Salad with Prawn.

Next morning after breakfast, we started in our bus for Angkor Wat which was just about 6 km away. Angkor Wat complex is a huge 400 square km archeological site housing Hindu and Buddhist temples. Since we would be in in Siem Reap for two days as part of our itinerary, hence it was not possible to completely explore the complex. Our tour organizer and my friend Indranil of Travel with Neel told us that we would be covering most of the significant places in the complex, so we were looking forward a lot.  Our first destination was the main Angkor Wat temple.

Angkor Wat that broadly translates as “Temple City” is the biggest temple in the complex. We entered through the back gate (East entrance), this led to long galleries with many sculptures on the walls. An ancient temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple had been converted into a Buddhist shrine by the next king. There is an eight armed statue of Vishnu in one part of the temple, whereas Lord Buddha was present in full glory in another part of the temple. We climbed one of the main towers of the temple and it was a tough climb. Many people congregate early morning to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise and the shadow of the temple in the lake in front. We too made a visit the next morning, but unluckily due to clouds, the Sun God did not oblige us. 

It was fascinating to learn about the spread of Hinduism is South-East Asia, and how alternate kings with different religions (Hindu and Buddhist) kept on changing the deities in the temples. It is heartening to see that Archaeological Survey of India is collaborating with the Cambodian government to restore some of the sites.

Our lunch was at a typical Cambodian restaurant Samroh Srahsrang Restaurant in Siem Reap. We enjoyed a set menu including Cambodia’s national dish Fish Amok, served inside a tender coconut shell, much the same way as we Bengali serve “Dab Chingri”. The coconut based gravy went well with the local rice. Cambodian cuisine has similarities with their neighbouring Thai cuisine, with Tom Yum Soup and Som Tai being popular dishes here. We tried a Fried Cashew Nut Chicken that tasted great too.

Talking about the beers of Cambodia, the most popular brand is “Angkor”. There is also a popular brand called “Hanuman”. God forbid if someone tried to launch a beer with the same name in India!

In the early evening we visited the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the capital of Khmer dynasty in the late 12th century. By the time reached Angkor Thom, it started raining and we had to cut short our trip for the day, and decided to come back there the next morning. 

After the rain subsided, we visited a Riverside Night Market, where you get clothes at ridiculous price. The Cambodian currency is Riel, and one Indian Rupee equals to about 46 Riels. Cotton shirts were available in the market at as low as Rs 150.

Siem Reap itself is a cute town with its own nightlife. It has couple of huge restaurants that have really large buffet and cultural programs showcasing local dance forms are presented during the dinner. Our dinner was at one such place named Morakot Angkor Restaurant. The restaurant has long dinner tables packed to full, each table accommodating close to hundred people. The buffet spread was huge with a great number of Asian delicacies. One local dance represented the culture of the local peasants, while another depicted a form of local martial arts. It was an enjoyable evening.

The next day, as mentioned above, our attempt to see sunrise at Angkor Wat was not a success.  Our next destination was Angkor Thom. The city of ruins has multiple temples. The main temple at Angkor Thom is Bayon, one of the first Buddhist temples at that site. There are huge smiling face sculptures on the temples, it is said it is the face of King Jayavarman (alternately some say it is Bodhisatwa), who built the temple. The temple also has a Shivling built in stone apart from statues of Lord Buddha.

The next place we visited was Bantey Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.  Ta Prohm was another temple we went to, where there was a plaque saying that the Archaeological Survey of India is helping in its restoration as part of “Indo-Cambodia Cooperation Project”. Ta Prohm means “Ancestor Brahma” , this was a temple dedicated to the King’s mother. Huge trees have taken roots in the ruins of the temple, making it an interesting location.

We visited another local restaurant Khmer Duerm Restaurant for food. The Stir Fried Sweet & Sour Fish and the Som Tam here were delicious.

We flew out of the Siem Reap Airport the next day. Given that we only had couple of days we could cover a few notable sites of Ankor. My feeling was that to cover Angkor in full you need at least five days. The airport at Siem Reap has a huge golden statue of four faced Brahma. Before our departure, we posed for a pic ibn front of the statue. Our next destination was Phuket. More on that later. 

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