Every journey to Kinnaur begins with a drive through some of Himachal Pradesh's most picturesque landscapes. Having travelled to Shimla nearly half a dozen times over the years—sometimes as a destination in itself and at other times as the gateway to the higher Himalayas—we weren't looking to tick off the usual tourist attractions. Instead, this short halt became an opportunity to rediscover familiar places while finding a few new ones along the way.
The highlight of our brief stay in Shimla was undoubtedly our visit to the Ramakrishna Mission Ashram.
Located amidst thick greenery, the ashram lies a little away from the bustle of the town. Reaching it involves a fairly steep climb from the hotel and then a descent from the main road to the meditation hall below. The effort, however, is rewarded the moment you step inside.
The meditation hall exudes an extraordinary sense of peace. Surrounded by towering deodar trees and the quiet sounds of nature, it becomes easy to lose track of time. One enters for a few minutes of silence and often ends up staying much longer.
The ashram itself is relatively new, having been established only about twelve years ago, yet it already feels like a timeless sanctuary for spiritual seekers and travellers alike. A statue of Swami Vivekananda is another highlight of the Ashrama. For anyone visiting Shimla beyond the usual sightseeing circuit, this is one place I would strongly recommend.
No visit to Shimla feels complete without an evening stroll along the iconic Mall Road. Despite having walked it numerous times over the years, the experience never loses its appeal. The colonial buildings, bustling cafés, old bookstores, and sweeping valley views continue to make it one of India's most enjoyable hill station promenades.We spent the evening walking leisurely, stopping at a few viewpoints before preparing for the longer drive awaiting us the next morning.
The following day, we left Shimla and headed towards Sarahan, about 150 kilometres away. The drive itself is one of the highlights of this route.
Passing through Kufri, Narkanda, and Rampur, the landscape gradually transforms. Dense forests give way to vast apple orchards stretching across the hillsides, while the mighty Sutlej River accompanies the road for much of the journey.
Since we were travelling during the growing season, almost every orchard was covered with protective anti-hail nets. Instead of the familiar sight of open orchards, the hills appeared draped beneath delicate white mesh, giving the entire landscape an unusual yet fascinating appearance.
Along the route, we also came across the statue of Samuel Evans Stokes, an American missionary whose contribution to Himachal Pradesh can hardly be overstated.
He introduced scientific apple cultivation to the region in the early twentieth century, forever transforming the economy of Himachal Pradesh. Later embracing Indian culture, he adopted the name Satyanand Stokes and actively participated in India's freedom movement. Today, every apple orchard in this region stands as a living tribute to his remarkable vision.
Perched at an altitude of approximately 7,500 feet, Sarahan is a small Himalayan village renowned for the magnificent Bhimakali Temple.
Dedicated to Goddess Bhimakali, the temple served as the principal shrine of the erstwhile Bushahr Kingdom. Its architecture immediately catches the eye. Built in the traditional Kath-Kuni style, the temple beautifully combines intricate woodwork with stone masonry, while strong Tibetan influences lend it a distinctive Himalayan character.
The temple complex is immaculately maintained, and its peaceful atmosphere makes it much more than just a place of worship.
Adjacent to the temple stands the former Bushahr Royal Palace, offering visitors a glimpse into the history of one of Himachal Pradesh's most influential princely states. Among its later rulers was Raja Virbhadra Singh, who went on to become one of Himachal Pradesh's longest-serving Chief Ministers. Both the temple and the palace are well worth exploring.
Yet, for us, the true enchantment of Sarahan lay beyond its monuments. It was the village itself.
Surrounded by lush greenery and framed by the snow-clad peaks of the Kinnaur Kailash Range, Sarahan possesses a tranquility that is becoming increasingly difficult to find in the more commercial hill stations.
Our hotel overlooked the mountains, offering spectacular sunrise views, but it was an morning walk through the quiet lanes that revealed the true character of this Himalayan hamlet.
The crisp mountain air, wooden houses, terraced fields, chirping birds, and distant peaks created a landscape that seemed almost untouched by time.
Unlike Shimla, where visitors are constantly surrounded by activity, Sarahan invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply absorb the beauty around you.
Our halt at Shimla provided spiritual solace, while Sarahan introduced us to a quieter, more intimate side of Himachal Pradesh. Together, they formed the perfect prelude to the spectacular journey that lay ahead into the heart of Kinnaur Valley.
Sometimes, it is these seemingly short stopovers that become the most memorable chapters of a Himalayan journey.
